What did you do to your NB today? [Archive]

MX-5 Miata Forum > NA/NB (1990-2005) Miata > NB (1999-2005) General discussion > What did you do to your NB today?

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Arrow2486

27th September 2015, 19:40

^^Arrow,

Does this diagram help?

Yes it did. That & looking at the pictures that I took before I took a single part off - made pictures from many different angles & I was able to track things down very well that way.

Arrow2486

27th September 2015, 19:43

AND today I was able to drive my Miata for the first time! For those of you that don't know, I bought it with a seized engine & then bought a JDM engine & trans to swap in. I've had the car since March & boy does it feel good to have it running!

It still needs lots of work to get it to where I'd like it, but one step at a time. :)

jimave

27th September 2015, 20:36

Code P0401 came back after 4 years with the reroute. Took intake and EGR valve did a total clean, code gone for now and hopefully for another 4 years.

Spanner

27th September 2015, 20:41

It still needs lots of work to get it to where I'd like it, but one step at a time. :)

Then it's time to change your signature :thumbs:

vvv10AE #1756 awaiting a heart transplant...

kallsop

27th September 2015, 22:12

Finished installing my GT3 roll bar, tomorrow new shoes.

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p309/kallsop2/20150927_182037_zps0vycdhs3.jpg

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p309/kallsop2/20150927_182830_zpsz2qkuhhh.jpg

jamesr242

27th September 2015, 22:46

Finished installing my GT3 roll bar, tomorrow new shoes.

Looks great, definitely like the color. What are those gussets with holes between the diagonals for? Just for looks or do they serve a purpose?

kallsop

27th September 2015, 23:04

Looks great, definitely like the color. What are those gussets with holes between the diagonals for? Just for looks or do they serve a purpose?

It's additional stiffening for the cross braces that Blackbird puts in. Have to say that Moti builds a quality bar. I went with the red to be different, it started with a red K&N intake and then red stitching on the steering wheel I ordered.

It's not an inexpensive bar, but if I decide to go full race, they have door bars to go with it to make it a true 6 point setup and it meets SCCA and NASA requirements.

Mathias

27th September 2015, 23:25

Finished installing my GT3 roll bar, tomorrow new shoes.

Going to pad the bar?

kallsop

27th September 2015, 23:57

Going to pad the bar?

It's on order for some SFI padding for the top bar. Going to do forward facing from seat belt flange to seat belt flange.

Also should have my Beatrush latches for the sides in a couple of days.

Mathias

27th September 2015, 23:59

Awesome. SFI padding is good stuff. We had a sponsor here who was rear ended by a truck @70mph and hit the bar. Thankfully his bar was padded and he was minimally injured.

KGMonteith

28th September 2015, 13:32

I finally cured the P0106 CEL on my '99 for Manifold Air Pressure sensor failure. It turned out that the EGR solenoid and EGR valve both needed to be replaced, after 87k miles, so thanks to Rosenthal Mazda and eBay, it's running like new! FYI, I tried a replacement (cheap, Chinese no-label) MAP sensor that listed for $10 on eBay, and that was bad from the start. A genuine Hitachi part works like a champ.

John in Brockville

29th September 2015, 13:05

Something our friends to the south don't have to think about, but I put the Miata away for the season this morning. Weather forecast for the next few days is calling for much cooler temps and I've got surgery on my toe scheduled for next Monday so my Miata Days are pretty much done for the rest of this year anyways. Its going to be a long 7 months till it sees the road again.

Chris GTO TT

30th September 2015, 00:02

Drove it to work today. Might drive it tomorrow as it'll be the last time before it's loaded on the trailer for the trip to Laguna Seca.

Seashed

30th September 2015, 09:44

John,

And down here in Arizona, quite the opposite end of the spectrum.
We are having our final couple 100°+ days, and then the 7 best months of Miata ownership. Looking at low to mid 90s for the high, tapering down into
the low to mid 80s by end of October, then mostly 70s. Evenings and mornings much cooler,
sitting at 68° right now at 6:40 a.m.

Not sure that I could put up the Miata for 7 months each winter, but I'm from your part of the world, and remember the season(s) well. Best of luck, maybe do some little projects on the car while it is hibernating, keep your toe in the mix?

Mal

30th September 2015, 10:44

Yeah, I can't put mine away and it shows it but I enjoy the darn thing too much not to drive it through the winter even here in Joisey where if it snows in Buffalo, they treat the roads here ....better stop or I'll get political.

I've even considered selling the hard top because the few times the winter temps rise to top down levels the top down driving is that much more fun.

Sanchinguy

30th September 2015, 10:59

Two more Miata weeks for me. My insurance comes up in mid October, so that's usually when it gets washed, waxed, topped off, covered up, and put away. I'll put the original wheels/tires on it for storage and stack the 6ULs away until spring.

Makes me eager for spring! :)

John in Brockville

30th September 2015, 11:48

John,

Hey Chris, those temps looks perfect to me. Have often wondered why I continue to live through those crazy Canadian winters but as we all know there are always a dozen different factors affecting pretty much every choice or decision that we make.

On average we can usually get closer to six months of comfortable driving and the snow generally doesn't arrive until early December but since the only way that I drive the Miata is with the top down, when those temps get too cold it really does take a lot of the fun out of the drive even with a warm jacket and the heater on.

I love my daily dose of this forum and you can be sure that my toe and I won't be missing a single day of it. I've still got a hint of a gas smell in the trunk that I'll probably try to resolve once again in the spring just before the car goes back on the road again until then it will probably remain untouched under its protective cover.

Warhammer

30th September 2015, 13:56

Miata driving is a year-round sport here in Texas, too. I'm not sure I could live somewhere that I have to put my baby in mothballs for several months! I'd probably have a nervous twitch but the time spring rolled around.

tbm275

30th September 2015, 15:23

Drove a bit during the window of sun before the hurricane comes up the coast, and then parked by the new 6 for a Mazda-off

shoult

30th September 2015, 19:57

Making final car preps for the trip to Michigan this weekend. My onboard OBD-II install is not as far along as I would like. The Android tablet washes out too much in the sunlight especially with the top down. It just means I'm not ready to pull the Blows stereo HU out of the dash yet. More testing is needed. So I made up a template for a mount that I'll form out of aluminum. I'll probably use the template on the trip though because of time. Here's a couple pictures of template #2 (#1 was REAL ugly).

Here is where it will ride. There are two tabs on the bottom that slide behind to radio knobs that hold the tablet up and in place.

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s309/shoult/Vehicles/2002%20Mazda%20Miata%20SE/Misc/2015-09-30%20-%20Tablet%20template%20front%20close_zpshghbt5lm.j pg (http://s155.photobucket.com/user/shoult/media/Vehicles/2002%20Mazda%20Miata%20SE/Misc/2015-09-30%20-%20Tablet%20template%20front%20close_zpshghbt5lm.j pg.html)

I like the look of Torque's round gauges better, but there is a chance I can read these with the screen washed out. Of course Coolant is the top left (closest) but I also have a OBD-Speed because the dash speedo is so far out of whack at freeway speeds. The dash is about 10mph fast, the OBD-II speedo is about 2 mph fast when compared to my GPS speedo.

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s309/shoult/Vehicles/2002%20Mazda%20Miata%20SE/Misc/f7c45618-a022-4dcf-bc62-56f2a4121ddf_zpsly9mav90.jpg (http://s155.photobucket.com/user/shoult/media/Vehicles/2002%20Mazda%20Miata%20SE/Misc/f7c45618-a022-4dcf-bc62-56f2a4121ddf_zpsly9mav90.jpg.html)

Yep, I made the template from Yeungleung case. You can see the tabs that fit over the radio knob shafts and the tabs that stick into the CD slot.

Chris GTO TT

30th September 2015, 21:08

Magnetic number plates arrived just in time for Laguna Seca!
http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag459/christobal65/Miata%20Stuff/IMG_20150930_175834_zpsrtrcmsqm.jpg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/christobal65/media/Miata%20Stuff/IMG_20150930_175834_zpsrtrcmsqm.jpg.html)

http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag459/christobal65/Miata%20Stuff/IMG_20150930_175850_zpsi7rwjbvq.jpg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/christobal65/media/Miata%20Stuff/IMG_20150930_175850_zpsi7rwjbvq.jpg.html)

john2151

30th September 2015, 21:28

Drove it!

doane2u

30th September 2015, 22:27

Magnetic number plates arrived just in time for Laguna Seca!

Chris: See you there. I'm going Saturday with my wife and neighbors driving our 2nd Miata.

BTW, what are your bronze wheels? I'm really thinking of getting bronze ones as I think they would look good on my BRG.

Chris GTO TT

30th September 2015, 22:45

Chris: See you there. I'm going Saturday with my wife and neighbors driving our 2nd Miata.

BTW, what are your bronze wheels? I'm really thinking of getting bronze ones as I think they would look good on my BRG.

I'll be out on track in the D group on Saturday:wave:

The wheels are Jongbloed Flyin Miata sells them :thumbs:

PioneerMX5

30th September 2015, 23:20

Magnetic number plates arrived just in time for Laguna Seca!

See you Friday Chris!

:cool:

kendawson

1st October 2015, 01:26

Officially the NB2 weighs more than the NB1 is it enough to justify the change? I'm not sure but I decided to follow their recommendation. I will say I feel theV-Maxx classics are under dampened all a round.

They are fairly soft, but a great ride on the road. On the track, I'm sure I would be faster with the track springs, but my instructor was amazed at how I could drive over the curbs without upsetting the chassis. On his race 240Z, even touching the curbs throws the car.

With aftermarket sways, I don't get much body roll, just a fairly supple ride. I'm pretty happy with the compromise, just need to get the longer front springs to counter the occasional bottom out

Slartidbartfast

1st October 2015, 09:01

Here is where it will ride. There are two tabs on the bottom that slide behind to radio knobs that hold the tablet up and in place.

That is a neat idea. I think I'd make the bracket fit in the (useless) CD slot or hook into the bottom edge of the eyeball vents.

What tablet and ODBII transmitter are you using? I see numerous admonitions against using the cheapest eBay transmitters. I have one of those which works but takes forever to connect to the car system. As far as I can tell, however, all the supposedly "better" transmitters are the exact same design and spec. (and manufacturer for all I know), just with a higher price tag.

shoult

1st October 2015, 10:36

That is a neat idea. I think I'd make the bracket fit in the (useless) CD slot or hook into the bottom edge of the eyeball vents.

Both the tablet and the transceiver are the absolute cheapest I could find as this was really an experiment. My real plan is to replace the useless Blows HU with the tablet permanently. Besides the tabs that fit over he knob shafts there are tabs that slide into the useless CD slot as well.

The ELM-327 mini was $6.37 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N2K6M2A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00) and the NeuTab N7 Pro 7'' tablet (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PMDEAYW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00)was $39.99. The OBD-II transceiver connects quickly and I've not had any problems with connections dropping or app compatibility. The tablet does not have gps though. That's not a biggy for me though since you need GPS plus either an internet connection or downloaded maps to have a working nav system. I'll just use Waze on my iPhone 6P for Nav.

The real reason I went with this tablet is that it has small edge borders and is the right size to fit in a custom made enclosure to replace the Blows HU. I also don't care about having a sound system in the Miata. The engine is the only sound system I need. In my OTM a good sound system is really important to me. In the Miata it's just a distraction.

zimmerframe

1st October 2015, 11:55

Renewed the alternator and PAS belts. That alternator pivot bolt is a right royal pita 😊

tobra

1st October 2015, 15:59

It is not so bad, after you get the splash guard off, if have an extra joint between your elbow and your wrist.

I had the top up for two days in a row for the first time in a very long time.

jsinnard

1st October 2015, 16:53

All hunkered down for the hurricane coming this weekend. Hopefully I will have the car back out on the roads next week.

Arrow2486

1st October 2015, 21:11

I've spent this past week cleaning the interior of mine... Animal fur from a previous owner is entrenched everywhere!

My side windows have badly pealing tint on them that I want to remove ASAP. So I'm thinking about removing them so I can put themin a trash bag and soak them in a heavy solution of Ammonia for ~24hrs. I think that should do the trick but I don't know if it will be a pain to reinstall and properly adjust the windows once I get the tint off. Any suggestions or experience that anyone would like to share?

shoult

1st October 2015, 21:50

I've always just used a spray bottle with ammonia and water. Spray, spray, peel, peel, spray, spray, peel, peel.

Mathias

1st October 2015, 22:32

A razor and Windex is all you need. It'll takes about fifteen minutes per window. Follow that up with a glass polish and you should be golden.

Arrow2486

2nd October 2015, 00:29

Well it definitely isn't going to be 15 minutes per window for my windows... Part of the problem might be that the previous owner tried to remove the tint & just peeled off the clear layer of the film on part of the window. This made it difficult to remove since the actual tint & adhesive layer had baked on & really dried out. It probably took me 30-45 minutes to get 80% of the tint off. What's left is a little along the edge at the fixed triangle window & then that little window itself.

Then I have the passenger window........

J3cubrc

2nd October 2015, 07:31

Then I have the passenger window........

Removing it from the car so that you can lay it flat on a padded bench takes about 20 mins. Of course, replacing it with salvaged glass might make sense too.

Arrow2486

2nd October 2015, 07:32

Removing it from the car so that you can lay it flat on a padded bench takes about 20 mins. Of course, replacing it with salvaged glass might make sense too.

But how long does readjusting it after reinstalling it take? It seems like that could be a challenge.

Warhammer

2nd October 2015, 08:11

Removing it from the car so that you can lay it flat on a padded bench takes about 20 mins. Of course, replacing it with salvaged glass might make sense too.

Might be a good time to consider replacing it with a vented window. If you're taking the glass out, you're already half way there.

J3cubrc

2nd October 2015, 10:44

But how long does readjusting it after reinstalling it take? It seems like that could be a challenge.

Good question. I had experience with adjusting windows in other convertibles, and don't find it difficult. But, I was able to improve the way my top sealed considerably after removing and reinstalling the glass.

I removed mine to replace the bushings, and it probably wasn't sealing correctly as a result of a top replacement I did myself. But it is easy enough to readjust the window when reinstalling it. Don't fret that. You can maybe make some marks before removing it, but I doubt it's necessary.

There is an important adjustment at the bottom of the track that you only see by looking at the bottom of the door.

I had a full size Delta 88 convertible once, and the top never closed to the window glass the exact same way twice.

Britmick

2nd October 2015, 10:49

Today I decided NOT to sell my 2002 LS (that gets to 60 in 6 seconds!;)) because after looking at what the alternatives are, & the fact that I'd probably undersold it ($5950 with 88k mls & in 95% good bodywork condition)

So, as the weather is in the 60's & won't be climbing above 72" today I shall have breakfast then put the (new) top down & go out & spank her bottom!!!!:thumbs:

jamesr242

2nd October 2015, 15:03

Installed some 3D printed parts (door bushings and visor blanking plates) that I downloaded from the internet. The door bushings needed some sanding to fit properly.

http://i537.photobucket.com/albums/ff332/jamesrosenblatt/IMG_20151001_2214183_rewind.jpg

http://i537.photobucket.com/albums/ff332/jamesrosenblatt/IMG_20151001_2215119_rewind.jpg

Also passed my inspection after my seat install which was a huge relief considering how modified my car is (thankfully emissions exempt due to mileage). Had to cut a hole in the trans tunnel and weld in a panel to make room; the fit is tight to say the least. Love the seat though!

http://i537.photobucket.com/albums/ff332/jamesrosenblatt/IMG_20150927_1723598_rewind_1.jpg

http://i537.photobucket.com/albums/ff332/jamesrosenblatt/IMG_20150922_2326392_rewind.jpg

http://i537.photobucket.com/albums/ff332/jamesrosenblatt/IMG_20150926_1928459_rewind.jpg

Chris GTO TT

2nd October 2015, 15:08

All loaded up and driving to Laguna Seca
http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag459/christobal65/Miata%20Stuff/IMG_20151002_114138_zpsovy8z6lc.jpg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/christobal65/media/Miata%20Stuff/IMG_20151002_114138_zpsovy8z6lc.jpg.html)

Britmick

2nd October 2015, 16:05

That's not a standard front wheel on the MX5 is it Chris!

:rolleyes:

doane2u

2nd October 2015, 22:16

That's not a standard front wheel on the MX5 is it Chris!
:rolleyes:

No, he's got these really nice bronze ones click here (http://forum.miata.net/vb/showpost.php?p=7695970&postcount=22272)

Chris GTO TT

2nd October 2015, 22:32

That's not a standard front wheel on the MX5 is it Chris!:rolleyes:

:rofl: track day wheels :p

Kdog99

3rd October 2015, 13:09

I spent time looking for a new or replacement ECU for 99. Does anyone know where I can get one other than Ebay? Most major auto parts dealers list the part but when try to order it it comes back as not available.

kallsop

3rd October 2015, 13:43

Here are the two sponsors here for used parts and they won't steer you wrong.

http://treasurecoastmiata.com/

http://www.partsgroup.com/

Warhammer

3rd October 2015, 13:45

Here are the two sponsors here for used parts and they won't steer you wrong.

http://treasurecoastmiata.com/

http://www.partsgroup.com/

+1! I've work with them both. Good people who are knowledgeable and willing to help.

Warhammer

3rd October 2015, 13:48

That's not a standard front wheel on the MX5 is it Chris!
:rolleyes:

Floatation tires. He's ready for the rainy season. ;)

konakona

3rd October 2015, 13:48

lately I've been helping my gf learn how to drive on my miata. just another day in training went by pretty well, watched a movie and dropped her off then helped her getting her stuff to her studio. came back down to the parking lot and couldn't get the engine started. it cranks cranks cranks but doesn't turn over. had to get it towed some distance to the shop I usually get things done. Had a similar problem a year ago which turned out to be melted signal lines to the CAS sensor due to a malfunctioning voltage regulator in the alternator. Something tells me it ain't quite the same this time though
1) the alternator is nearly new, though I was getting some cold whine with no accessory belt slack as of late
2) was smelling some strong gas odor, particularly so near passenger seat (not in the trunk). had two shops inspect the car to find nothing, but they both relied on visual examination only. come to think of it, I felt the car was strangely gutless even at WOT (not at all times, but on and off sporadically) on my way to pick her up.

oh well, at least it didn't break down in the middle of a busy bridge traffic or something :D
too late to start anything tonight, the mech said he would take a good look first thing in the morning on the coming monday. keeping my fingers crossed!

broodjeaap

3rd October 2015, 14:43

Drive around in a foreign country, have the alternator belt snapped and because of that a dead battery... Got it towed to a garage in the night. That's where I found out it made a hole in the radiator. Garage said there was almost no compression at 3 cylinders and somewhat more than nothing on the other. Best case scenario the head gasket is blown, worst case is the engine needs replacement. With no money to pay for a fix (student life) like this and only a place to crash until Monday night, I hope I can get it fixed in the parking lot. What an adventure.

Tips?

Kdog99

3rd October 2015, 17:19

Here are the two sponsors here for used parts and they won't steer you wrong.

http://treasurecoastmiata.com/

http://www.partsgroup.com/

Thanks for the help.

Arrow2486

3rd October 2015, 20:53

Last night I managed to get the tint removed from the side windows everywhere except the small triangle windows. I removed both windows from the car (one at a time starting with the driver's side). I then sprayed a strong concentration of ammonia on the tint and let it soak for a bit before removing it with a razor blade. The driver's side took some work since the previous owner had peeled off most of the clear protectant film which left the fragile tint & adhesive mostly intact on the window... While it was off I fixed the rear guide that had come apart (guide is cracked so I will need to replace it later, but for now still functional).

The passenger side tint removal was a breeze! It all came off in one big piece & took 99.5% of the tint & adhesive together. This did take me all of about 15 minutes once I had let the ammonia soak for about 30 minutes while I put the driver's side door back together.

To my slight dismay, I found that a previous owner had removed the Bose speakers (I knew about the HU). I kind of wanted the Bose speakers since I like the way they sound in my '98 Nissan Pathfinder & wanted to see how they were in the Miata (I know there are many that say the Bose speakers weren't good in the Miata but I prefer first hand experience). But I did manage to fix the aftermarket HU (it strangely stopped transmitting sound after I got the engine installed & running. Came to find out that the adapter wiring harness connector had a wire that had pulled out from the connector - easy fix!

So a few random observations / questions since this is the first Miata I've owned (driven a few) & I bought it inoperable. Do NBs have a rather noticeable click heard from the right side of the engine bay when the key is turned "on"? Is it normal to occasionally have the idle drop close to 500rpm when braking hard (I'm wondering if my undersized highly stretched to fit vacuum line from the intake manifold is the cause or if it's something else)...

ConeChaser73

3rd October 2015, 21:06

Relocated my AFR gauge to the right center vent. It was installed by the previous owner in an A pillar gauge pod, but I'm not too fond of a constantly blinking gauge in my line of sight so I moved it.

Took the bezel off the gauge and made the vent trim ring fit in its place. I'm far from the first to do this but I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. Blends into the dash nicely.

http://i62.tinypic.com/2afjtb8.jpg

Chris GTO TT

3rd October 2015, 23:07

Successfully completed a track day at Mazda Raceway Laguna Seca in it :cool:

kallsop

4th October 2015, 00:45

Took her out and ran her hard through some twisties near me since she was all dressed with new Rival S shoes and roll bar for MRLS and wasn't able to make it. Was fun feeling the improvements but wasn't the same.

arturo7

4th October 2015, 02:41

Tips?

yowsa

How far are you from home?

JonK67

4th October 2015, 14:03

couldn't get the engine started. it cranks cranks cranks but doesn't turn over.....
2) was smelling some strong gas odor, .....come to think of it, I felt the car was strangely gutless even at WOT (not at all times, but on and off sporadically)

Have them check the main relay in the engine bay fusebox, its green on US cars. It vibrates and shorts out the contacts eventually. All the cranking with no start may give the fuel smell. My relay had arc marks on the spades/female connections.

konakona

4th October 2015, 14:34

thanks, that's a start. one thing though, the fuel smell came on and off as early as two weeks ago AFAIK, while cranking and not turning over only happened on the last Saturday. not sure if they are closely related or two separate problems...

Mutt

4th October 2015, 18:20

Took it to the SCCA Solo event at Hutchinson Island today. I am pretty stoked that being my first time I only hit one cone and improved my time on each run. 36th in time over all and 23rd with the PAX out of 51 cars. To say I am excited is an understatement :jump:.

http://i.imgur.com/ctLIzAfl.jpg

rbert07

5th October 2015, 07:14

Got my new K&n intake that I bought on 4 wheel online (http://4wheelonline.com/). I like the sound of this intake on my buddy's Miata so I decided to get one also. Can't wait to install it next week.

Unusualdesigner

5th October 2015, 11:01

Not today but over the weekend:

Mike [N6XRF], our SoCalM president and us did a run up to the SAMOA Silver Jubilee and then did several runs around the mountains. All told, ~1100 miles from home-home.

Highlight of the trip was a approx 100 miles, 6 hrs long trip through the historic CA mining country; we had 15 cars in the first group and managed to stay together most of the run despite a few OTMs that got in the middle and could not keep us with us in the twisties :D

Kudos to the SAMOA planning committee! A great time was had by all!

Rob42

5th October 2015, 11:42

Fixed my warm engine no-start problem.

The previous owner had bypassed the clutch safety switch with this high quality wiring job:
228190

This was adding some resistance into the ignition circuit, meaning that when the starter was hot there wasn't enough current for the solenoid to fire.

Soldered the wires together properly and heat-shrunk it all:

228191

Starts better than ever now!

BH500

5th October 2015, 16:32

I bypassed the clutch safety switch on my '99 -- I did as another poster suggested and used a spare 15A fuse I had laying around and twisted the prongs 90 degrees and it fit perfect! Ziptied the unused pigtail to the firewall and hopefully will be good to go without any no-warm starts.

2002TitaniumSE

5th October 2015, 17:16

Finally got around to swapping my front tires side-to-side to see if that would change the right-ward pull (alignment is nailed to the 1/10 of a degree all around). Looks like the front passenger tire is suffering from radial pull so a new tire is on the way from TireRack...hopefully that'll be the end of that.

They're less than a month old so the 30-day Yokohama trial warranty is still in effect...no idea if that's what made the process so painless or that's how it always is with TireRack; I've never had to replace a tire through them before.

boomercarguy

5th October 2015, 18:13

Flyin' Miata makes a clutch switch override which does not require any wiring changes at all. It is a small stainless steel clamp which holds the button in underneath the clutch pedal. It takes one minute to install and one minute to remove. The advantage is less wear and tear on the throw out bearing.

BH500

5th October 2015, 18:52

I saw that piece boomer, but since I didn't need any other parts it seemed like a pretty expensive bent up piece of metal when shipping/handling is figured in. I was just going to zip tie the switch in the closed position, but unplugging the wire was even easier.

It literally took me 30 seconds to bridge the connections the way I did it, and if I decide to go a different way the 949 piece Emilio sells looks like a nice clean option. Pretty much the same solution Rob42 ended up with.

As it stands right now, my mod is working perfectly -- I can start the car with the clutch out.

Kermit

5th October 2015, 19:04

Completed a permanent lazy cup holder fix:
228259
228260
228261
228262

shoult

5th October 2015, 19:42

Removed the last of Texas from my car. The Texas/Houston window inspection/easypass stickers HAD to go.

Warhammer

5th October 2015, 20:17

Completed a permanent lazy cup holder fix:
228259
228260
228261
228262

Looks great! I'm working on a home-brew version of something similar myself.

Kermit

5th October 2015, 20:47

Looks great! I'm working on a home-brew version of something similar myself.

Thanks Warhammer!

I'm thinking about experimenting on the one I took out too. Good luck with your project and please share photos through the process or once you've completed it.

Arrow2486

5th October 2015, 20:48

Completed a permanent lazy cup holder fix:

You did a great job! Did you modify the original console or was it entirely custom?

Warhammer

5th October 2015, 20:54

Thanks Warhammer!

I'm thinking about experimenting on the one I took out too. Good luck with your project and please share photos through the process or once you've completed it.

Thanks, and I will. I just ordered switches to relocate the window and lock controls to the cubby space where my air bag switch used to be. (That's now in the glove box.) I'm also adding a power antenna switch beside the window and lock switches. Then I plan to cut the console between the shifter surround and the orignal window switches. Sort of an extra-short shorty console. I've already relocated the trunk/gas levers to beneath the driver's seat. Eventually, I'll make a cover for the transmission tunnel to give it a more finished look.

Kermit

5th October 2015, 21:46

You did a great job! Did you modify the original console or was it entirely custom?

Unfortunately, I can't claim this one. It's made by JetStream, all I did was buy & install.

Kermit

5th October 2015, 22:05

That sounds like quite the project! I didn't consider relocating the trunk and fuel lid levers. Hmmm...after I redo the door cards, sounds like a project I might explore.

JonK67

6th October 2015, 00:30

Late night headlight repolish with a $15 3M kit. I may do the last steps again in a week to see if I can get them even clearer.

Warhammer

6th October 2015, 00:35

Late night headlight repolish with a $15 3M kit. I may do the last steps again in a week to see if I can get them even clearer.

Make sure you clear coat them, or they'll be hazy again within 3-4 months.

JonK67

6th October 2015, 00:58

What clear coat? Is there one specifically for platic lights?

Arrow2486

6th October 2015, 05:27

What clear coat? Is there one specifically for platic lights?

I personally would just put on xpel (or similar) clear headlight protectant film. It's not too expensive for a pre-cut set and they're pretty easy to install. I am not using them yet but plan on doing so as soon as I polish my heavily hazed headlights.

amptramp

6th October 2015, 10:07

Would this be what yo are looking for?

http://www.krylon.ca/products/uvresistant-clear-coating/

http://sherwin.scene7.com/is/image/sw/paint_template-1?layer=comp&wid=250&fmt=jpeg&qlt=100,0&op_sharpen=0&resMode=sharp2&op_usm=0.0,0.0,0,0&iccEmbed=0&printRes=150&_tparam_layer_1_src=sw/41305 UV Resistant Clear Coating Gloss

shoult

6th October 2015, 10:20

3M recommends what basically is just a wax treatment every 3 months. Right now I'm testing the difference between Laminix and the wax treatment. I renewed my headlights about 3 weeks ago and then applied Laninix to one headlight and the other is just waxed with the 3M product they recommend. We'll see what happens.

Mal

6th October 2015, 15:27

Clear coat works well and lasts. 600 grit paper is enough and gives a good tooth for the clear. The 600 haze totally disappears when the clear is applied.

Arrow2486

6th October 2015, 19:41

Clear coat works well and lasts. 600 grit paper is enough and gives a good tooth for the clear. The 600 haze totally disappears when the clear is applied.

Do you wet sand & buff the clear once it cures (might take a month to 6 depending)?

Warhammer

6th October 2015, 19:44

That sounds like quite the project! I didn't consider relocating the trunk and fuel lid levers. Hmmm...after I redo the door cards, sounds like a project I might explore.

Lol, door cards are on my project list, too.

konakona

6th October 2015, 19:45

alright, close enough: the main relay is bunrt out, and some of the wiring was molten along with it according to the mech. will be a quite long and painful process to assess the extent of the damage and redo. electrical failure was the first thing sprang to mind as we already had a similar non-start situation about two years ago. back then it was the cas sensor wiring, now this. the crux of the repair will be trying to figure out what exactly caused it in the first place. rather an expensive repair to repeat every other year :(

konakona

6th October 2015, 20:23

some random things I can attribute that to:
I admit I probably didn't do the cleanest wiring job (speakers, etc) when I installed a nexus 7 tablet as a head unit. plugs it's got quite a few things hooked up to it (two 12to5v adapters, usb hub, dvb-t adapter, a tiny dac, 120mm dc cooling fan @5v, usb rotaty volume knob, DIY amp on LED - not sure if this was done right) then some more (tollway transmitter, dashcam, phone charger). but hey, people routinely have a whole bunch of these things in their cars and never have an issue. I mean really? these shouldn't draw a whole lot even to put anywhere near excessive strain on the alternator methinks.

panasonic OE battery is next to impossible to get a hold of around here, so I had to make do with what I can get my hands on. the one I got is small and without a proper mounting bracket that I just fabbed up two weeks ago, it had been bouncing around in the trunk time to time whenever the then-inadequate tie down got loose. I have shorted the pos/neg terminals a few times (uh oh) while trying to settle it down. wonder if that contributed to some damage? like I said, now I have a proper mount and no longer have that problem.

other than that, I know the radiator fan was long overdue for a replacement (and the associated harness, most likely). the thing is it was ok all along and felt like only got better as I finally had the fan replaced and the connector cleaned - much less vibration with AC on with the newer fan. then all of a sudden the wires melt shortly after, coincedence?

Last but not least, I've been putting window guide greasing forever and they struggle to go up and down - one of the things on my DIY laundry list. that, and I recently reactivated power doorlock, but had to put in a 25A amp instead of the OE 10A for the lack of a spare. doubt that would do any harm though.

shoult

6th October 2015, 22:04

Last but not least, I've been putting (off?) window guide greasing forever and they struggle to go up and down - one of the things on my DIY laundry list. that, and I recently reactivated power doorlock, but had to put in a 25A amp instead of the OE 10A for the lack of a spare. doubt that would do any harm though.

Really? You KNOW the window motors are drawing heavy current and the fuse isn't blowing ONLY because you've put a fuse in that's 150% more than what is supposed to be in there and you wonder why you have burned out electronics? The 99-00 only has an 70 amp alternator. They went to a 80 amp in 01 even though that car didn't draw very much more.

Besides the window draw you also have a huge list of other current draw listed. Pare down your current draw, upgrade to the 01+ PNP alternator (or even a bigger amp alt), fix the window draw before you get back out there and burn more stuff up.

Chris GTO TT

7th October 2015, 00:34

Anyone have any experience with the aftermarket 01+ Semi-COP? The $35 ones are tempting since I think MI might have damaged mine cleaning the engine bay :(

konakona

7th October 2015, 02:53

no no no you read it all wrong, sorry if I was unclear. the fuse I had removed then reinstalled was for the doorlock, not for the power windows. If memory serves, those are governed by separate fuses. power windows are still on the standard rated fuse which is yet to blow during my 3+ years of ownership(knock on wood). doorlock functions fine btw. granted, yes power windows must have put some extra strain. the kicker probably was AC, something I would never use driving alone. just got me a girlfriend a while back and she can't tolerate the summer heat, so theres the problem.

if 01+ alternators are compatible and more robust, I think that's sound advice. not convinced those other gadgets draw a whole lot of current though, no moving parts, not a whole lot of heat generated. the 120mm DC fan was removed a while back if that matters at all. on second thought, might be a good idea to actually add up all the max current draw from the addons and see what they amount to.

EDIT:
mini 0805 - hooked up do a DC adapter rated up to 2A
tollway transmitter (IR) - estimated under 0.3A
phone/nexus+dac+dvb/t - all on the same DC adapter rated up to 2A
LED clock estimated 0.02A
120mm fan @5v 0.3A estimated - been long since disconnected at the time of the mishap

not sure how much current the OE bose HU draws, but being old electronics I am willing to bet it is easily more than all these combined.

Kermit

7th October 2015, 10:00

Lol, door cards are on my project list, too.

Looks like a fairly straight-forward project, so we'll see. I've got everything that I need except for the fabric, which I can't decide on. Debating between black and blue, or a combination of the two, I've not been able to decide what route I want to go. Black is the easy decision, then blue, then the combination which I think would also look best but be the most difficult. I've not sewed a thing in my life, so there's that hurdle.

Warhammer

7th October 2015, 11:30

I'm in the same place. I can't decide whether to go with black diamond stitched vinyl (readily available and fairly cheap) or to invest more time and money to get some diamond stitched vinyl made with black vinyl and red thread. After that decision is made, the project itself doesn't look all that complicated. Of course, I'm complicating it (I do that a lot) by keeping the up door bolsters from my 2003, which I'll need to recover.

shoult

7th October 2015, 12:00

I thought my rear pads were ready to replace so I went to change them last night before I took off for a weekend road trip. I pulled the caliper off the rotor and found that the pads were only about halfway worn. I thought "what the heck, I'm in there and the pads need new hardware anyways" so I tried screwing the piston back in, but no dice. The piston is too grunged up to go back in. So it looks like there is a caliper rebuild session or new/good used calipers coming up in my future. Yea!

winky

7th October 2015, 15:47

I recently replaced one of my rear calipers because of a leak at the emergency brake cable rod. I got the part from Rock Auto. Worked out well. Probably should have done both sides while I had it up on stands.

winky

7th October 2015, 15:51

I was outside talking to my neighbor and he handed me a bottle of headlight restore stuff and a towel. He said "Here, I just did mine. Try it on yours." It worked well.
Later on I kind of laughed to myself because it was like someone handing you a breath mint when you haven't asked for one. :)

rgrega

8th October 2015, 16:33

Made two spirited runs on US 129. Very little interference with slower vehicles pulling over. Third attempt was soured by two slower motor cyclists, guess they didn't read the memo. Stopped for lunch at the bikers resort grill. Drove over to Killboys, free Wi-Fi and super nice people.
Just met up with the wife at a cabin. Headed to Gatlinburg to do the tourist walk. I'm 58 and have never experienced this. Kinda don't like the vibe of tourists traps.

rstormzand

10th October 2015, 10:52

Im assuming I can thread jack since this thread is a mess already but "what i did to my nb today" was wire in my new fuel and ignition controller from aem! I wired it into a harness extender (also from aem) making it "plug and play"
this picture was taken halfway through the process. There were a total of ~30 soldered connections. Fun stuff!
228595

Mutt

10th October 2015, 10:56

That looks like an exercise in patience and concentration to me.

rstormzand

10th October 2015, 11:03

That looks like an exercise in patience and concentration to me.

It is! It looks scary but with a proper diagram it's pretty simple. Like you said, patience and concentration. And I saved around $100 by doing it myself rather than buying one already wired into a harness

PeteUKinUSA

10th October 2015, 11:07

That looks like an exercise in patience and concentration to me.

One man's patience and concentration is another man's therapeutic. The retentive in me wants to do that immediately.

rstormzand

10th October 2015, 11:59

One man's patience and concentration is another man's therapeutic. The retentive in me wants to do that immediately.

it is very satisfying to finish and know you got all the connections correct and that they will be very durable. its fun to solder and heat shrink!

boomercarguy

10th October 2015, 12:58

One man's patience and concentration is another man's therapeutic. The retentive in me wants to do that immediately.

I agree. When my wife asks me why I am spend so much time working in the garage, I tell her that it's Man-Cave Therapy. When a man's hands are busy, he is at one with the universe.

Unusualdesigner

10th October 2015, 13:41

I agree. When my wife asks me why I am spend so much time working in the garage, I tell her that it's Man-Cave Therapy. When a man's hands are busy, he is at one with the universe.

:rofl: As my neighbor's wife tells about her husband: "At leas when he's in the garage tinkering with his bikes he's not at the booby bar ... " :rofl:

Arrow2486

11th October 2015, 14:08

I found an oil leak today! Thought that tightening my oil filter a few hundred miles ago solved it. Guess not!

Anyone ever encounter oil leaking from around the oil filter even after it has been tightened (what I would think to be) sufficiently? I had a decent bit of marvels mystery oil in the engine while it sat for the last several months (probably 1.5 qts). I put that in through the spark plug holes to fill the cylinders and it would then leak around the rings and end in the oil pan. I then added oil before cranking the engine (once the engine finally got installed of course). According to the instructions on the mystery oil it says that it can be run in an engine at a ratio of about 20 or 25%.

After ~100 miles I drained the oil & refilled with 10w30 (it took 3qts). I didn't replace the oil filter but I have noticed it apparently leaking from the bottom of the oil filter (there doesn't seem to be any oil on the tip or sides that I can find, but at the bottom I can get oil on my towel).

I don't want to over-tighten the oil filter because I've seen some so tight that they are nearly impossible to remove but I also don't like having an oil leak no matter how small (this is probably at a rate of about 1/6 qt every 100 miles).

Business

11th October 2015, 15:30

Having problems with the key ignition where I could turn the key at all. Wouldn't let me wiggle the steering wheel at all yesterday but managed to get it behaving a little bit today. Apparently using dry graphite should help? I don't know the costs/labor involved with replacing the ignition switch but I'm guessing it's a fair amount.

jclesc

11th October 2015, 15:49

Great day here in St Louis. I sanded out some paint touch ups I did about two weeks ago, then used Maguire's Ultimate compound on the whole car, then Maguires's wax. The car is ready for winter storage, although I probably won't put it up for a month or so. Still plenty of beautiful fall driving days.

Seashed

11th October 2015, 18:15

Arrow2486,

There is a "sandwich plate" which is part of the oil cooler system, beneath the oil filter.
That also has a big O-ring to seal it to the block. After a few dozen years, the seal can get brittle and leak. Not all that big of a job to replace it, but I'd replace the small coolant hoses connected to the cooler while I was down there, and I did. I bought the hoses as part of the full hose kit from Rosenthal Mazda, my car was due for a full swap out, glad that I did it that way.
http://parts.arlingtonmazda.com/products/COOLANT-HOSE-KIT-%28PKMIAD1006%29.html

Here is a photo of the oil cooler/sandwich plate in place with the oil filter removed.

Kylini

11th October 2015, 18:47

All the leaves are turning in Iowa. Also, it was 80º and breezy.

http://kylini.com/grm/rallybird1.jpg
http://kylini.com/grm/rallybird2.jpg
http://kylini.com/grm/dirtymiatap.jpg

Arrow2486

11th October 2015, 20:54

Arrow2486,

Thanks Seashed. I already replaced the hoses while it was outside the car. I managed to tighten the filter a smidge more so we'll see if that fixes it. I will also look into ordering that sandwich plate seal. What tool is required to remove the sandwich plate nut (aka I don't think I have a socket that size)?

Go Blues

12th October 2015, 07:50

Arrow2486,

FWIW - Years ago and on my DD, I had an oil leak similar to what you are experiencing. It turned out to be the gasket on the filter itself. Replaced the filter and leak went away. I do not remember what brand it was.

boomercarguy

12th October 2015, 08:12

Arrow2486,

+1. Go for the simplest fix first. I've had more than one oil filter gasket not seal, in spite of applying oil on the seal so that it would not pinch when I installed it. This happened to a couple of different brands.
One time many years ago ago I had a major leak under the oil filter on my OTM which was due to my not checking that the old gasket came off with the old filter that I had removed. It was stuck to the engine and not to the oil filter. This caused an extra seal between the new filter and the engine. Fortunately, I caught it in time to remove the filter and the extra seal, re-install the same filter and top up my motor oil. Problem solved.

bobesser

12th October 2015, 10:19

(Saturday)
I autocrossed the car.

I also installed a JDM ECU that I got for about $130. Car seems to run a bit smoother - supposed to have a higher rev limit, but, I don't know if I got there during the autocross or not.

Next project up is a pretty huge paint repair effort - car is an autox car, so I can't see spending upwards of $1500 respraying it, but, I would like it to look better than it does now, so . . . we'll see what sort of hack job I do.
Bob

klavender

12th October 2015, 11:07

Well yesterday but, drove some great mountain roads on the way back to Columbia, SC from Johnson City, TN. Took 3.5 hrs to get there taking the interstate but at least 5 getting back home. :D You can definitely tell the locals when driving, especially that old Camry in front of me that was hauling!
Some of the road:

shoult

12th October 2015, 11:10

I found an oil leak today! Thought that tightening my oil filter a few hundred miles ago solved it. Guess not!

You are tightening the oil filter onto the oil cooler plate. Between the plate and the block is an o-ring that can go bad.

Tjj226_Angel

12th October 2015, 22:51

I found an oil leak today! Thought that tightening my oil filter a few hundred miles ago solved it. Guess not!

This happened to a friends car. Simply put it was a crappy oil filter. The filter itself should have a rubber gasket to make a solid seal.

Its possible this seal is just dried up and not up for the job.

I would recommend doing a full oil change and this time install a new filter. Make sure you lube up the gasket with a little bit of oil ect.

Tjj226_Angel

12th October 2015, 22:54

Today I replaced the brake rotors, pads, calipers, lines, master cylinder, and of course fluid.

I also installed a new master and slave clutch cylinder and changed the fluid.

Now all the pedals fell much firmer and give me a lot more feedback.

I still need to do a shifter rebuild, and replace the softop before winter comes.

Arrow2486

13th October 2015, 07:14

Yesterday, I replaced my radiator cap which has seemed to stop the gurgling & overflowing of coolant from the overflow tank but will continue to monitor the situation. I also think that tightening my oil filter might've stopped or significantly slowed the leak. I tried looking into purchasing the seal between the cooler & the block but couldn't find the part number listed on Rosenthal's site.

To top off my day I went & put some dry lubricant (Teflon or similar) on the top latches as they seemed notchy and were difficult to open & close. Then on my drive to work this morning I learned the value of the secondary latch stop / button.... Mine are seriously worn and don't contact the main latch - which hadn't been an issue before......... Then I hit a bump & the passenger side latch just unlatched! I also noticed the driver's side latch wanted to hang and let things get a little loose....

Note to self: only lubricate latches AFTER you know the catch button works as intended.... Now repairing the top latches just moved up to the top of my vehicle priority list!

boomercarguy

13th October 2015, 08:06

You don't need the part number. Tommy at Rosenthal's parts department can get you anything you need whether its listed on the website, or not. He is the guru of Mazda parts.

Kylini

13th October 2015, 09:23

Here are some photos of my labmate and I thrashing the Miata on Sunday. They were taken by Steve Wickersheim (https://www.flickr.com/photos/126141105@N07/albums/72157657448693963/with/22122788505/).

http://kylini.com/grm/stevemiata1p.jpg
http://kylini.com/grm/stevemiata2p.jpg
http://kylini.com/grm/stevemiata3p.jpg
http://kylini.com/grm/stevemiata4p.jpg

Unusualdesigner

13th October 2015, 09:24

You don't need the part number. Tommy at Rosenthal's parts department can get you anything you need whether its listed on the website, or not. He is the guru of Mazda parts.

+1 on the above.

I have called him and asked for the thingamajig that connects to the gizmo under the framis and he comes up with the right part number right away :D

Seashed

13th October 2015, 12:23

Arrow2486,

Here is that O-ring, just in case you are looking to pick up the part locally or a source other than Rosenthal: http://parts.arlingtonmazda.com/products/O%252dRING-%28KL01%252d14%252d702A%29.html

I've ordered a ton of parts from Tommy, but sometimes for a single small part, a local source works best to avoid shipping costs. This may be the case for you, if you just need the one part.

bobesser

13th October 2015, 13:07

I used the 3M kit to restore my headlights. Took about 30 mins and cost about $15. Results are pretty good - they don't look brand new, but, pretty good. Also, I notice some grime, etc. on the inside of the lenses - can you take them apart and clean? Before and after pics attached. I also hit the sides with the stripe eraser. It removed most of it, but, didn't work so well on the passenger side towards the front. Still, probably saved some prep work.

Bob

movingshadow

13th October 2015, 13:15

See Also

Gamble pays off for Kenseth

I had my stock clutch replaced with an Exedy OEM clutch purchased from Flyin' Miata. I also installed a Competition Clutch Lightweight flywheel I found on Ebay for $198. It is 13 lbs. The stock flywheel is 19 lbs and I'm glad that old thing is not in my car anyore. Car drives different with the light flywheel. Car feels slightly more athletic.

N2WMD

13th October 2015, 14:46

I just picked up a 2000 NB and spent the day under the dash removing excess wiring etc. I had a VIPER alarm that looked to have 100+ connections in the which it doesn't look like they even trimmed a wire on when installed. There must have been a mile of excess wire. Also found a Sirius radio interface behind the factory radio which had its connections running out the front of the dash and was powered by a extra cig lighter socket installed in the radio bay behind the factory radio. No surprise that the radio would not push correctly into the dash. All in all, I removed about 15 pounds of excess wire and connections. Much cleaner under there now and no new problems acquired.

Still have an issue with the airbag light though. I am getting a 6 flash and then a 7 flash. This seems to mean bad driver and passenger modules, but I think a system problem more likely than a double failure. Anyone have any insight?
Scott

Warhammer

14th October 2015, 00:46

I got a whole mess of parts for a couple of projects.

1. Auto-dimming mirror with compass and Homelink
2. Switches and guards for relocating my window and door lock switches (and adding a power antenna switch), which will allow me to continue my shorty console project.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v409/rlkeely/20151013_222930_zpsvwhvlmsv.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/rlkeely/media/20151013_222930_zpsvwhvlmsv.jpg.html)

N2WMD

14th October 2015, 09:33

Put the autodimming mirror with Homelink in a couple of days ago. Best idea EVER! $27 on Ebay and a few minutes time save me from dealing with my garage remote and worrying about parking in the driveway.

konakona

14th October 2015, 20:51

at the end of the long wait, finally got my car back. had to take a bus to the shop and was late to my crossfit session but it was totally worth it!

been running on a borrowed cr-v for a while and the only things i liked about that behemoth of a car (comparatively speaking) is the strong AC and mucho cargo room. everything else, miata hands down for me :thumbs:

as for the repair, yes it was excessive current thru the main relay and the neighboring wires burning everything up. part of that was wear and tear i am sure, but get this: one of the POs had a nerve to put in a 20A unit! iirc the oe main relay is rated at 80A. the mech who fixed it only had 40A at hand so thats what he went with. my guess is i will have to get that replaced too asap?

5Miata10

14th October 2015, 22:46

How are you guys wiring this in? I pulled the Mazda Homelink mirror out of my Speed3 before I sold it with the intent of installing it in my 99 Miata. I kept the airing harness that taps in near the fuse box. I just have not chosen the wires to tap. I want it to be off when the ignition is off unlike it was in my Speed3.

I got a whole mess of parts for a couple of projects.

1. Auto-dimming mirror with compass and Homelink

PIPO

15th October 2015, 00:45

first mod on the NB is miataroadster Shift Kit. It's still notchy but better. I guess it's motorcraft time!http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b531/privatee3pipo/Mobile%20Uploads/20151014_175921_zpsn4hks5ug.jpg (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/privatee3pipo/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151014_175921_zpsn4hks5ug.jpg.html)

boomercarguy

15th October 2015, 07:21

The notchiness (is this a word?) has been called the "mechanical snick of the co*cking a bolt-action Winchester rifle". I prefer it over the silent shifting of my front-wheel-drive OTM's. It gives the car personality. Are you using full-synthetic GL-4 spec gear lube in the tranny?

CMMCK

15th October 2015, 09:16

Take her for a ride in the ragtop, man! You're there to help her in and out, and these are the kinds of moments with your mom that you'll cherish for the rest of your life.

OK, I drove back to Delaware and took my 93 year old mom for a Miata ride. I think she had a good time: she asked me to send her this photo. I can't believe how small she looks in the Miata.

Warhammer

15th October 2015, 10:48

OK, I drove back to Delaware and took my 93 year old mom for a Miata ride. I think she had a good time: she asked me to send her this photo. I can't believe how small she looks in the Miata.

Well done, buddy! :thumbs:

Warhammer

15th October 2015, 10:57

I haven't gotten the chance to install mine yet, but there a 3 wires: constant on, on with ignition, and ground. As I understand it, that should disable the Homelink when the key is not in the ignition. I plan on tapping constant on and ground at the dome light, then I only have to run a single wire to a switched source like the fuse box or cig lighter.

JGard

15th October 2015, 10:59

I finally got mine back together. It stopped being able to go into gear back in July and I had already replaced all the hydraulics, so I knew it was clutch replacement time. Not something I was terribly interested in doing in a Texas summer. But whatever, I finally finished it this week, put Ford Motorcraft fluid in, and wow, feels like an entirely new car. It was just nice to be able to finally commute in my Miata again for once...

N2WMD

15th October 2015, 11:47

As far as the autodimming mirror goes, The spec calls for a always hot line and a ignition hot line. I prefer just the switched ignition hot for everything. That way, the garage door opener does not work lest the ignition switch is on. For that I ran a wire from under dash up inside the pillar and across the top windshield trim. Smooth install. If you want the always on you can get that from the dome light circuit without running anything. Not sure how much current the autodim function pulls, though. On most harnesses, it is just black to ground and the other two to hot switched. If you have more wires or different colors you can experiment till it works. I didn't get the harness with mine and soldered directly into the mirror.

Warhammer

15th October 2015, 16:41

I downloaded the original instructions and it mentioned a white wire the could be tapped into the reverse lights. This would then turn off auto-dim when you are in reverse. Kind of a neat feature.

Hmm, if the Homelink works without the key in, I'll definitely be installing both hot wires to a switched source. I never lock my Miata and I don't want the garage door opener working without the ignition on.

N2WMD

15th October 2015, 17:04

Trailer spare looks like it is on the car , for sure!

Motocrossx23

15th October 2015, 17:53

Washed it one last time, new owner is picking it up tomorrow :(

Sad, but house > car.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f44/Motocrossx23/5FBA3F2A-4BAC-43C5-B936-B834AD1EAF20.jpg (http://s44.photobucket.com/user/Motocrossx23/media/5FBA3F2A-4BAC-43C5-B936-B834AD1EAF20.jpg.html)

JonK67

15th October 2015, 19:07

Washed it one last time, new owner is picking it up tomorrow :(

Sad, but house > car.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f44/Motocrossx23/5FBA3F2A-4BAC-43C5-B936-B834AD1EAF20.jpg (http://s44.photobucket.com/user/Motocrossx23/media/5FBA3F2A-4BAC-43C5-B936-B834AD1EAF20.jpg.html)

Hey, cover that thing up, I want it dry when I pick it up tomorrow!

That's better. :) I'll take good care of it.

5Miata10

16th October 2015, 00:33

I had those wheels on My 2003 MINI Cooper S. I loved those wheels! Nothing better than a classic five spoke! (says the guy with eight spoke Panasports)

Washed it one last time, new owner is picking it up tomorrow :(

Sad, but house > car.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f44/Motocrossx23/5FBA3F2A-4BAC-43C5-B936-B834AD1EAF20.jpg (http://s44.photobucket.com/user/Motocrossx23/media/5FBA3F2A-4BAC-43C5-B936-B834AD1EAF20.jpg.html)

tbm275

16th October 2015, 16:20

Today I reinstalled the axleback muffler, drove it to put air in the tires and check muffle for leaks. Then gave it a nice bath cause its been neglected lately and attacked by the trees and the birds.

konakona

16th October 2015, 18:18

solved one problem(?) and discovered another!

took my eclipse vent rings to a plastic fabrication shop we regularly do business with, and the owner helped me cut them in the right length free of charge. could have done it myself but it was quicker that way :) brought them home, trimmed them with sandpaper and cleaned with rubbing alcohol + running water.

they went in fine as expected, but now that the airflow is more directed than before, I really can sense the musty odor when the fan is on. I have no experience cleaning the evap system, what would be a time/cost-effective way to do this? just grab a can of AC cleaner spray and spray into the evap and the duct? If I were to take it all apart, is there any gasket/grommet/foam/bushing that may need to be replaced? Feel free to post links to a comprehensive guide that deals with AC/fan odor.

the eclipse vent rigns don't look too shabby but I personally like the OE look slightly better. focused air + complete shutoff is a definite win though. function over form any time of the day!

not today, but something that happened just recently: found a local dude selling some lotus seats for cheap. thought it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace my aging NB1 passenger seat with this. he didn't exactly say which lotus so I assumed the seat is similar to what we see in an elise. wrong. it was off a speedster, which means prefabbed elise-to-miata conversion brackets won't work. fabbing a custom bracket would cost a **** ton (easily double the price of a seat) so I reluctantly passed on this deal. they didn't look as nice as a leather upholstered elise ones either, oh well. my search for a nb2 seat continues. people at the shop where the seat was located really digged my advanti storms :D

bigal007

16th October 2015, 18:43

Today, I installed Eclipse vents that I got from Kenny U-pull last week. :D

http://forum.miata.net/vb/picture.php?albumid=3764&pictureid=17723

Now will need to prepare it for storage:realmad:

http://forum.miata.net/vb/picture.php?albumid=3764&pictureid=17722

Sanchinguy

16th October 2015, 20:04

Gave it a quick detail and general sprucing up in anticipation of its final run of the season. For those in the mid-Michigan area, Miata Owners of Mid-Michigan is doing an informal color run tomorrow. Meet in the restaurant parking lot at the corner of Grand River and M66 at 9:30am (north of I-96 exit 67). We end up in Mason for lunch and then everyone heads home to watch the U of M / MSU game. (Go Green!). Join us for a cold, but enjoyable drive! (The weatherman used the "S" word!)

shoult

16th October 2015, 20:55

Go BLUE!

konakona

16th October 2015, 21:35

just got done cleaning + applying shin etsu on my window tracks. had I known it was this easy, would have done it sooner. didn't have to take the tracks off, just lifted the plastic film cover from the rear side, enough to reveal the tracks and snake my hand in.

found a huge pile of what appears to be vaselin which turned into a sticky and dense gunk in there. thankfully the bushings were fine, just cleaning that stuff off made the windows work a whole lot more effortlessly. applied some dabs of shin etsu inside the tracks and on the triangle window guides. took me about an hour from start to finish, totally worth it!

JonK67

16th October 2015, 23:27

solved one problem(?) and discovered another!..... now that the airflow is more directed than before, I really can sense the musty odor when the fan is on. I have no experience cleaning the evap system, what would be a time/cost-effective way to do this? just grab a can of AC cleaner spray and spray into the evap and the duct? If I were to take it all apart, is there any gasket/grommet/foam/bushing that may need to be replaced? Feel free to post links to a comprehensive guide that deals with AC/fan odor.

Here is the thread i did with pics on pulling the blower section out to het to the coils. If you remove the glovebox (easy) it will give you more insight to what you are doing. I was removing my dash anyway but the blower section shouldn't be too hard to get in/ out with dash in. The harder part will be seeing into the coil box to clean, maybe a 6" round mirror would do? I use home coil cleaner, spray bottle of water, small shop vac and put a bucket under the coilbox drain to catch the gunk.

I couldn't believe how clogged mine was seen in the first pic, 3/4 blocked by hair, straw, etc.

http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=580374

PIPO

17th October 2015, 01:52

this is different. As in a whole another level! it hurts me just to shift once it's warm. I just got the car, I think the fluid has not been replaced in a long while. I just got the amsoil 75w 90. I had an experience with MC it was good. But this might be better.

boomercarguy

17th October 2015, 05:42

I let my wife drive it today...always makes her happy. I drove the Corvair to work...top down as well. :cool:

I had a 65 Corsa convertible, too. It had a turquoise body with white top, white bucket seats, telescopic woodrim, aluminum spoke steering wheel, chrome dual exhausts, etc. from the factory! I really, really miss that car. Just after I had the pushrod seals replaced and installed heavy duty shocks with slightly wider tires on the rear, Hurricane Agnes sent flood waters to drown my baby. I didn't know that I could buy back the car from the insurance company that had "totalled" it! The local body shop owner restored it and gave it to his daughter. :ohno:

J3cubrc

17th October 2015, 10:09

First post I read this Saturday morning. Now I'm depressed...:(

Kermit

17th October 2015, 12:31

Installed RevLimiter's retro window switches. I love them, they fit well, work perfectly and the components that Adam used to create these are of excellent quality!

Recently, I installed a Jet Stream shorty console and within a couple of days the rearward end of the factory window switches popped out and point forward refused to stay in place and sit flush with the console. Very small price to pay for the console I wanted, no complaints. Sure, I could have found an easy solution, a bit of trimming and probably free fix, but these switches are, in my opinion, well worth their price and slightly increased installation difficulty.

229071
229072

Kermit

17th October 2015, 14:00

RevLimiter day at Kermit's house. This is one of his recently released horn buttons, Prototipo with a dark blue background. Now it's bath time

229073

konakona

17th October 2015, 15:20

I couldn't believe how clogged mine was seen in the first pic, 3/4 blocked by hair, straw, etc.

http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=580374

wow, that is super informative... and the before pic is really really gross :eek:
did yours smell too before cleaning and did it make difference? if anything I could use better performing AC so I would do this anyway. just wondering if there is another source of this foul odor through the vents, even with the AC off (didn't test yet to see if AC on is any better)

I've been removing the glovebox quite often to locate this annoying rattle that goes on and off, still unsuccessful at that btw. happens with the glovebox totally removed, so it is not the hinge or anything - but that's a topic for another thread. never done the dash removal though, is it as intimidating as it sounds? better yet, can I do a decently satisfactory job without removing the dash? I take it you clean the coils still hooked up, but the blower can be taken out? do I have to worry about the coolant gushing out if I were to remove the HC like you did? sorry about too many questions, I figured I would have to asked all these down the road anyway :O

fergy

17th October 2015, 17:23

I looked on and helped just a bit as Joe Wall and Eric up in Waterbury CT installed SenSens and new bumpstops on my 2002 LS. I did get to watch and learn though, and we had a good time. Car is riding nice and firm again!

PIPO

17th October 2015, 18:09

changed the diff/ and trans fluid. night and day diffrence! Used Amsoil 75w 90 on trans. 75w 110 severe gear for diff.

Marshalls new ride

17th October 2015, 20:19

Beautiful day, put the top down and a nice drive to my favorite beach.

MR2Aaron

17th October 2015, 21:59

Today, I bought and subsequently brought home a beautiful silver 2004 Mazdaspeed!

She's got 180K miles on the clock, but is otherwise quite clean, and runs like a top. It appears that her previous owners cared for her pretty well, and it looks like all I really have to do on it is maintenance.

cruisin'n5thgear

17th October 2015, 23:08

Today, I bought and subsequently brought home a beautiful silver 2004 Mazdaspeed!

Well done. Barely broken in at 180, my '00 is at 220 and running great on the original drivetrain.

tbm275

18th October 2015, 07:54

Trying to decide between keeping her and working on getting a 2012 PRHT....

On one hand I love my car, but the other hand, it gets hard trying to put the hardtop on every year by myself and it is just slowly wearing me down, and there's a deep blue PRHT for sale for 19k with only 15,000 miles...

konakona

18th October 2015, 09:33

something very stupid.
been helping my gf learn how to drive (still on learner's permit) for some time recently. she picks things up real fast, surprised me how quick she got used to city driving.

well today we happened to be out in the boondies and she wanted to get a taste for rural twisties. everything went well until I asked her to pull over to grab something out of the trunk. as soon as the car decelerated, we started smelling some horrible burning stench. got off to take a look and thick smoke started emanating from the inside of rear wheels. asked her if she disengaged the parking brake before she took off and she shakes her head in disblief :ohno: told her not to worry too much about it, I was with her the whole time and didn't catch that either :( **** happens!

considering that was well under 1km going relatively slow and traffic was pretty scant, we decided to give it a go for another 5 min or so. haven't noticed any foul play in the rear brakes or anything else for that matter. made it back home some 90km away no probs.

just to be safe though, I will have the car inspected first thing this coming monday morning. other than rear brake pads, rotors, parking brake cable(?), what else would be good to check?

PeteUKinUSA

18th October 2015, 12:34

Not my Miata, but the father-in-law's just picked up a red 1990 with a busted timing belt. Needs new paint, a bit of rust repair around the rear quarter panels and the custom leather seats repaired. He paid $600... And it includes a factory hardtop !!! So basically he got a hardtop for $600 and a free, perfectly fixable car thrown in. If I said I didn't have my eye on the top I'd be lying.

N2WMD

18th October 2015, 12:55

Having some issues with a radio replacement. I bought a single DIN radio from Crutchfield and the install kit seems really shoddy. The radio goes in fine, but the pocket to fill the other hole is really wobbly and doesn't stay in place very well. Is there a really good solution out there? Even the radio doesn't seem to be really solid in the dash as it only has the slightest grip on the sides and nothing on the edge of the 2nd DIN opening.
I gutted the original cassette player and salvaged the metal box and mounting clips. The I "machined" the crutchfield DIN pocket so it would fit inside the original cassette player box. I am ready to try this version out in the dash as it should lock in just like original, but I thought I should wait till I swap the passenger airbag harness in case I need the access space. I didn't leave holes to release the factory clips once installed so I don't look forward to ever trying to remove it.

Britmick

18th October 2015, 13:05

I sold mine last week & made a nice $1200 profit after using it all summer & now I don't have to worry about the fact that there was no winter garage space for it................I also don't actually miss it, because it's just a piece of metal which can be replaced next spring!:thumbs:

J3cubrc

18th October 2015, 19:16

...just to be safe though, I will have the car inspected first thing this coming monday morning. other than rear brake pads, rotors, parking brake cable(?), what else would be good to check?

Consider replacing the brake fluid.

Robb in Austin

18th October 2015, 19:25

Broke the crank shaft timing belt pulley. And a few plastic clips :D

Warhammer

18th October 2015, 19:52

I installed a new rear view mirror with auto-dimmimg, compass and Homelink.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v409/rlkeely/20151018_184814_zps3s2bqpkg.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/rlkeely/media/20151018_184814_zps3s2bqpkg.jpg.html)

Mal

18th October 2015, 22:37

something very stupid.
been helping my gf learn how to drive (still on learner's permit) for some time recently. she picks things up real fast, surprised me how quick she got used to city driving.

just to be safe though, I will have the car inspected first thing this coming monday morning. other than rear brake pads, rotors, parking brake cable(?), what else would be good to check?

Another good reason to have a big red warning light. Temp, oil and brake.

Go Bears

18th October 2015, 22:58

dear pipo, i did the same fluid changes. and yup, night and day difference! used motorcraft transmission and mobil 1 differential! plan to rebuild shifter next.

me77

19th October 2015, 00:25

Having some issues with a radio replacement. I bought a single DIN radio from Crutchfield and the install kit seems really shoddy...This might help you: Metra Harness, OEM BOSE system? (http://forum.miata.net/vb/showpost.php?p=7346693&postcount=7). The dash kit I used works pretty well, sits good and looks good.

Sanchinguy

19th October 2015, 09:02

Did a fall color run on Saturday with a few intrepid souls from the Miata Owners of Mid-Michigan (Find us on Facebook). It was cold (36 degrees when we started) and it warmed up to brisk, but we were not deterred. The sun was shining, the roads were fun, the colors were great, and the tops were down. Even the occasional snow squall didn't dampen our spirits. A great day. And yeah, we're not very good at following instructions...229210229211

PeteUKinUSA

19th October 2015, 12:20

New boots. BFG Comp 2 A/S. They have what might be politely called "an unusual aesthetic" but going from 205/45/16 to 205/50 has bought the speedo more-or-less into line.

JonK67

19th October 2015, 14:19

Bought an '02 LS on Friday and got rearended on way home Sunday :(
Hoping it's just rear bumper cover. 5 mph hit at stoplight.

jh1129

19th October 2015, 14:31

Installed clutch interlock, one less procedure at start up. Added a 1/2 " spacer between Momo wheel and Daikei hub, am liking the wheel just a bit closer to me.

MR2Aaron

19th October 2015, 17:08

Well done. Barely broken in at 180, my '00 is at 220 and running great on the original drivetrain.

Thanks - for 180K on it, the car seems pretty clean, although it looks like maybe the actual previous owner sold it or traded it in because it was about to need some maintenance - timing belt, radiator, maybe some hoses. None of that seems like deal breaker, to me.

I noticed some other folks on this and other forums who seemed to know what production number their MSM was, so I spent a few minutes researching.

Turns out, my MSM is number 10 out of 4000 sold that year. :eek:

BH500

19th October 2015, 18:57

Installed clutch interlock, one less procedure at start up.

I did mine last weekend, and this weekend driving around I totally forgot about it and out of habit started with the clutch in at least 7 out of 10 times!! But driving around for a change rather than riding the bus was a blast! Love my car, love it!!!

BH500

19th October 2015, 19:01

I also swapped out a suspect Mazda battery that was slow to start with the AGM version of the O'Reilly battery. Install was as snap except for the homeless burpy dude who kept exclaiming to me how much he loved my MG. First time he burped behind me I slipped and hit the chassis with the wrench just as I was tightening the + clamp. :-o That'll teach me to bury my head in the trunk while working in the parking lot!

boomercarguy

19th October 2015, 19:19

This is just an update on the modification I did to my gas pedal in my 2001 LS to relieve the pain in my right knee when driving for long periods without the cruise control. I followed Miata King's directions exactly and the results are fantastic. I've driven over 2K miles since the mod and I haven't had any problems at all. I thought I was going to have to sell the Miata since long drives had become torture. Now my right foot sits at the same angle as my left foot when it rests on the dead pedal. The only noticeable difference was how high the brake pedal was in relation to the gas pedal. Within an hour of driving, I didn't notice it any more. To be on the safe side, I bought an extra pedal from eBay, "just in case". If and when I ever sell my car, the buyer will get the extra pedal.

Warhammer

19th October 2015, 19:39

I receied and installed my Moddiction blue tinted convex side mirrors. They go great with the new auto-dimming rear view mirror. Same blue tint on it!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v409/rlkeely/Mobile%20Uploads/20151019_182744_zpssh1rh43b.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/rlkeely/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151019_182744_zpssh1rh43b.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v409/rlkeely/Mobile%20Uploads/20151019_182753_zps23dopu0q.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/rlkeely/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151019_182753_zps23dopu0q.jpg.html)

Kermit

19th October 2015, 19:59

I receied and installed my Moddiction blue tinted convex side mirrors. They go great with the new auto-dimming rear view mirror. Same blue tint on it!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v409/rlkeely/Mobile%20Uploads/20151019_182744_zpssh1rh43b.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/rlkeely/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151019_182744_zpssh1rh43b.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v409/rlkeely/Mobile%20Uploads/20151019_182753_zps23dopu0q.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/rlkeely/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151019_182753_zps23dopu0q.jpg.html)

Looks fantastic Warhammer and they do look great with your rear view mirror! You & I appear to often be on the same, or very similar, page. I also received mine today but won't have a chance to install them before this Sunday at the earliest.

Sanchinguy

19th October 2015, 20:25

Put it to bed for the winter. [emoji17] My insurance is up, the weather's starting to turn, and it's time.

Put the stock wheels on with a little more air in the tires, freshened the fluids, put some Stabil in the tank and topped it up, removed the battery and put it on the trickle charger, and covered it up.

Night night, little one. See you in April...

snif... snif...229256

daender

19th October 2015, 20:33

Dropped off the Miata’s hardtop as part of a deal; a body shop guy that I’m good friends with is going to create a negative (a mold) of it for his LeMons race car Miata (he’s going for a ‘72 Stringray coupe look, minus t-tops). In return, he’s going to refurbish mine and repaint it in any color I want so I'm going with black so I can vinyl the windshield frame black for a bitchin’ two-tone look. Pops sanded, polished, and sealed the headlight lens so no more yellowing or fading, that said I'm going to install those OSRAM headlights eventually...

Also, credit to the guys who proved me wrong about the boot cover straps. Finally noticed it flapping against the softtop while at speed, never noticed it before because I was always going 65 mph with little to no wind. Today I was doing 70-80 mph into some gusts. Time to search where to run those straps!

Warhammer

19th October 2015, 20:33

Put it to bed for the winter. [emoji17] My insurance is up, the weather's starting to turn, and it's time.

Night night, little one. See you in April...

snif... snif...229256

That would just about kill me. God bless Texas!!!

Seashed

19th October 2015, 22:34

daender,

Do you mean like this? http://www.miata.net/garage/boot.html
That's the way I've been doing it for years without issue.
If not that, what else is going on with yours?

CMMCK

20th October 2015, 09:11

Not today but last Sunday I attended the Hunt Country Classic, the DC MG club's annual show on a horse farm near Middleburg, VA. It's a great drive on mostly back roads, about 95 miles from where I live. My show favorite was a 1959 MGA Twincam, unrestored but still raced. And the parking lot can be as interesting as the show field. Ever see a Miata dwarf another car?

nwick

20th October 2015, 15:42

Put it to bed for the winter. [emoji17] My insurance is up, the weather's starting to turn, and it's time.

Night night, little one. See you in April...

snif... snif...229256

Must be a UP guy, heard they got 3 inches in Marquette last night. (of snow)

xeee

20th October 2015, 18:28

Nothing fancy, but I added a USB Charger inside the glovebox.

http://i.imgur.com/Mc7J3Oo.jpg

lynk26

20th October 2015, 20:19

Put on some new shoes today!

http://www.mazda-speed.com/albums/album688/WP_20151020_014.jpg

Go Bears

20th October 2015, 23:28

Too bad! It's just perfect season here in Deep South!229342 Just put new tires (of course summer tires) today!

daender

20th October 2015, 23:46

daender,

Do you mean like this? http://www.miata.net/garage/boot.html
That's the way I've been doing it for years without issue.
If not that, what else is going on with yours?

Thanks, that's what I've been looking for! I've sorta just used the buttons and kept it taunt by wrapping it around the outside edge like what I've seen on other Miatas in person. It's only started acting up and flapping loudly just recently.

arturo7

21st October 2015, 00:12

Drove it home for the first time.

konakona

21st October 2015, 12:24

Took another peep at the OBD2 readings, looks like the rear O2 sensor is finally working. P0420 creeps back on though, meaning the cat is most likely shot. I asked the mechanic who did NB1->NB2 header upgrade for me to take a good look at the cat for blockage/clogging. He didn't note anything particularly interesting there.

Soooo.... If I keep running like this, what are some negatives other than being eco-unfriendly and the exhaust gas smelling like crap? If anything I've passed local emissions testing last spring and have had this P0420 since day one of my ownership. I wish NBs were simple drop-in like NAs are. Even NB cat+midpipe is probably inexpensive in the grand scheme of things, I am just a bit cash strapped as of late...

Arrow2486

21st October 2015, 15:01

Too bad! It's just perfect season here in Deep South!229342 Just put new tires (of course summer tires) today!

Welcome to the club! Nice looking 10AE you've got there. Is that your "garage space"? Haha. I need to buy some lifts like that - just can't justify the $ for them.

5Miata10

21st October 2015, 22:02

You should be good. I noticed no performance degradation with the P0420. If it passes emissions, I'd ignore it for now. I did not pass emissions and replaced the cat with a RoadsterSport mid-pipe to kill the P0420.

konakona

21st October 2015, 22:20

thats good to hear. i just keep clearing the P0420 via torque periodically so that it doesnt obscure other CELs that may pop up.

PioneerMX5

22nd October 2015, 00:39

Drove it home for the first time.

Pics or it didn't happen!

:cool:

arturo7

22nd October 2015, 01:29

Pics or it didn't happen!

:cool:

pic here http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=592637

konakona

22nd October 2015, 01:35

received a new door jamb switch to replace the dead one on the passenger side. now both switches check out, yet the doors are (still) fallaciously registered as stuck open. I am reading 0 volts between the door jamb switch wire and chassis ground on either side. Is there a relay or fuse somewhere dedicated to door jamb switch operation?

konakona

22nd October 2015, 11:25

Took a used NB2 crossover pipe from YAJ to a shop so I could ditch the torn and taped up stock NB1 pipe. had to saw off the Helmholtz resonator and seal the opening real well. as a while at it thing, cleaned the MAF with IPA. on my way home, the car felt a good bit smoother, especially when idle; been a while since MAF was cleaned last time.

while dimensions probably are nearly identical, the NB2 part was noticeably more rigid and solid. maybe the NB1 one I had softened from excess under hood heat? dunno

N2WMD

22nd October 2015, 11:56

This might help you: Metra Harness, OEM BOSE system? (http://forum.miata.net/vb/showpost.php?p=7346693&postcount=7). The dash kit I used works pretty well, sits good and looks good.

Thanks,
I think I may try that Metra kit. What they sent me was just a pocket for the empty space. This one seems to tie the two holes together and give a trim edge.
Scott

PeteUKinUSA

23rd October 2015, 09:04

Currently at the stealership where they are happy to do an alignment to FM spec with me in the car. They're also doing a tranny fluid change (yeah, I know, I just don't have the time right now) and using the Unicorn tears : which they keep in stock ! Oh, and replacing the key remote battery for free - which is exactly the price it should always be.

hdhendrick

23rd October 2015, 09:45

... cleaned the MAF with IPA. on my way home, the car felt a good bit smoother...

I had to think about why you were using India Pale Ale for a few moments...

cdub17

23rd October 2015, 13:32

I receied and installed my Moddiction blue tinted convex side mirrors. They go great with the new auto-dimming rear view mirror. Same blue tint on it!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v409/rlkeely/Mobile%20Uploads/20151019_182744_zpssh1rh43b.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/rlkeely/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151019_182744_zpssh1rh43b.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v409/rlkeely/Mobile%20Uploads/20151019_182753_zps23dopu0q.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/rlkeely/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151019_182753_zps23dopu0q.jpg.html)

what kind of cupholders are thosE?

Orangello

23rd October 2015, 15:54

Actually was a couple of nights ago but i carefully checked and wiped off the front end to see if the buck i thought i brushed left any hair or blood or other bodily fluids (like i almost did).

Warhammer

23rd October 2015, 16:32

what kind of cupholders are thosE?

It's a Travel Buddy, made for Corvettes, that I trimmed to fit the Miata. Here's the thread where I did the work: http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=560180&highlight=cup+holder&page=2

Jdpaddle

23rd October 2015, 16:41

I just removed the driver door jamb switch to check it out two nights ago.

The dome light would NOT come on with door open It was intermittent and jiggling the switch would help. So I removed it to look at it.

All I ended up doing was cleaning it up with fine sandpaper. I scuffed/ cleaned all of the contact areas. It worked so well that I did the passenger side. I swear the dome light is brighter now (or not) but it works flawlessly.

While I had the switch out, It looks to me like the screw that holds the switch in place completes the grounding of the switch to the door jamb so make sure that is a good connection and that the switch is in place. In other words, I don't think the switch will test well if you don't have it screwed in place.. No testing while holding it in your hand. Though I might be wrong there. Just some things for you to check.

cdub17

23rd October 2015, 16:54

It's a Travel Buddy, made for Corvettes, that I trimmed to fit the Miata. Here's the thread where I did the work: http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=560180&highlight=cup+holder&page=2

omg thank you!

konakona

23rd October 2015, 20:27

thanks, but i had them disconnected to test; continuity is there when the switch is at rest (door open, should complete circuit to gnd), not when it is depressed (door closed, open circuit)

maybe i need to get a hold of the wiring diagram for that...a
I just removed the driver door jamb switch to check it out two nights ago.

The dome light would NOT come on with door open It was intermittent and jiggling the switch would help. So I removed it to look at it.

bigwidegrin

23rd October 2015, 21:33

I had to laugh as I sat in my Honda accord and reached for the seatbelt in an underhand motion. In the spring when I am used to the accord again and I am finally able to get the Miata back out I will be trying to reach for the Miata seatbelt overhanded and that does not work. :D

konakona

24th October 2015, 06:58

ah crap got logged out and lost my wall of text , here is the abridged version:

cleaned the blower motor last nite, didnt get around to clean the evap yet (was getting late). not sure how you would vacuum and spray water from down there with so lottle room to work with... ac cleaner application note tells you to let it soak then blow the grime out thru the vents. kinda tempted to go down that route

in the meantime, i played around some more with the tein stereet flex damping adj knob. been running 12f 14r for some time, tried 10f 12r for a couple of days - def firmer but just enough to be bearable, faster to settle and slightly less body roll. today i went full soft @16f 16r and gf approves it! very cushy indeed.

Warhammer

24th October 2015, 10:04

I treated all the glass with Rain-X in preparation for the monsoon-like rains that are hitting Texas.

Seashed

24th October 2015, 10:27

^^Be safe! Watching the weather news this morning, and it looks like it did just as I came through your area this summer. Nothing to play with, your family loves and needs you.

Same thoughts to all in the affected area(s).

attlid

24th October 2015, 11:20

I plasti-dipped the windshield frame black a while ago. I am quite happy with the result. I think the car looks a few years younger like this.

Today, I washed, cleaned and put her to sleep for the winter.

See you in Spring.

JackStraw

24th October 2015, 18:13

Drove to City Market in KC then went to lunch at Manny's Mexican restaurant.

Go Bears

24th October 2015, 19:43

I treated all the glass with Rain-X in preparation for the monsoon-like rains that are hitting Texas.

be careful!

JonK67

25th October 2015, 14:30

Took the girls for their first trip for coffee this morning (they get whipped cream) in the new to me '02. We sit outside for an hour while ladies fawn over the Great Dane, its a tough life...

Lots of compliments on the car at the auto parts store too.

Wingman703

25th October 2015, 18:43

Replaced the classic green dieing radiator, after that 45min job turned into 4 hours, back up and running perfectly.

And of course then I had to go... ahem... "vigorously test it" afterwards ;)

SATX

25th October 2015, 22:59

Today we went for a beautiful Texas hill country drive, and then a quick bath after arriving back at home to wash off the grime from the weekend's mini deluge.

huskydog

26th October 2015, 02:28

I had the boxes, I had the speakers, I had the materials, I had to do it, and it sounds pretty good.

smelliott409

26th October 2015, 18:58

Today I finished up my vents in the hood, I think it looks pretty clean. [emoji5]️229688229689
Don't look at the dirty car or headlights, I need to clean her up

Ericky92

26th October 2015, 22:42

I recently bought new weatherstripping after a failed attempt to fix original softtop rubber seals. The product is overall really nice in quality. I also bought new latch caps hoping it would fix my latches as they don't lock. I'm just going to insert some screws later so that it locks. The garage star door bushings also provided some mod to my car. Just a side by side of the old and new soft top rubber seals.

arturo7

27th October 2015, 00:25

Changed the oil, tranny & diff fluids, made a huge mess.

This was my first time underneath the vehicle and I wasn't sure how far out from the drain the fluids would spew. Missed the engine oil by a mile, tranny fluid by a half-mile. Did better with the diff where at least I hit the side of the pan.

Next I was filling the tranny from a gallon container. Pumping and pumping, waiting for the fluid to overflow from the fill hole. Turns out the hose had the fill hole blocked off. I removed the hose and the fluid came gushing back out. I'm guessing I tried to put in 3 qts instead of 2. Thankfully I had a new jumbo bag of shop towels on hand.

In the end, the job was a successes. I took her for a moonlit blast along the coast to check for leaks and found none.

Aldwine

27th October 2015, 05:55

Ohlins suspension on my 10ae :) Check test Bilstein vs. Ohlins (full instalation and coparison included, however in Slovak language)
https://youtu.be/tiFWcy3enag?t=17m

shoult

27th October 2015, 08:30

Changed the oil, tranny & diff fluids, made a huge mess.

In the end, the job was a successes. I took her for a moonlit blast along the coast to check for leaks and found none.

This is why I use a large piece of cardboard (think broken down shipping box) under my catch pan. If I don't spill, no harm. If I do I can just throw the oil soaked cardboard away.

jsinnard

27th October 2015, 10:07

Coolant flush scheduled for tonight after work, check and likely replace the thermostat too. I was stuck in some long stop and go traffic last week and watched the water temp climb to 220 on my scangauge II. I ended up turning on the heater on to get the temps down to about 208 until traffic opened up. Took the car out on a long drive on Sunday to monitor temps and they stayed between 197 - 203 where it runs normally in the summer.

arturo7

27th October 2015, 13:04

This is why I use a large piece of cardboard (think broken down shipping box) under my catch pan. If I don't spill, no harm. If I do I can just throw the oil soaked cardboard away.

Yeah, I thought of that when I was cleaning up. I'm usually a fanatic about cardboard; I rarely throw away a box. Guess I was too excited to be working on a new vehicle.

Chris GTO TT

27th October 2015, 23:53

Replaced the NB2 ignition coils with the $42 each ones from O'Reilly got rid of the random light miss fire and smoothed out the idle. Lifetime warranty on them so if they ever go out as long as I own the car they'll replace them free of charge!

Kylini

28th October 2015, 12:53

Just preordered the extended lower ball joints from Flyin' Miata. Turns out it's $140 for the pair, making it a no-brainer to get beyond -1.8 degrees in the front for autocross.

boomercarguy

29th October 2015, 10:32

I discovered a weeping brake line on my NB2 with 120K miles on its 15 year-old body and ordered four new ones. While I'm replacing these, I'll also install the new Exedy brake master cylinder and slave cylinder kit with a steel-braided line which aren't leaking yet, but old enough to do it.

bmgreenberg88

29th October 2015, 22:00

I was rooting around in the trunk, I've been trying to track down a leak that leaves water in my trunk. Do other people have the loose "insulation" under their rear deck that you can see from the trunk or is that something one of the PO's did? And can I just toss this. Or any recommendations on replacements. 1 side appears to have disintegrated from the leak.

Thanks! Otherwise she has been great, driving her every day to work until the first snow.

Seashed

30th October 2015, 10:53

A number of owners here have put in different types of insulation in the 2 "tunnels" on either side of the fuel tank to cut down on noise transmitted into the co*ckpit. If/when I do it, I'll go with styrofoam peanuts sealed in big plastic bags. You can think on it for a bit and see what you can come up with that will serve the same purpose.

konakona

30th October 2015, 11:26

when I fired her up to head to the gym, I saw the airbag light flashing in a 4-9 pattern. For my year, that would be the air bag disable switch. First time something like this ever happened, it was gone when I cranked it again to return home. Lose or frayed cables somewhere maybe? I did stash the airbag disable assembly away behind the radio bezel to install some gizmos that go with my nexus 7 tablet install. Kept the harness intact and firmly plugged in though, never had any issues up until now. oh well...

doane2u

30th October 2015, 11:38

Thanks! Otherwise she has been great, driving her every day to work until the first snow.

The two piller drain tubes should be checked regularly as they can easily get clogged up. If the water is on the gas door side, check to be sure the gas lid cubbly drain isn't clogged as well.

On my '01 I removed my spare tire, made a new floor liner and stashed the jack and tools in the right hand cubby along with some bubble wrap to cut down on noise. On the left I also put bubble wrap in. I think it does cut down on the noise quite a bit. Here's a thread on doing it with pix (http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=580131)

Seashed

30th October 2015, 11:40

konakona, RE: airbag switch:

I'd pull out the switch, clean the connector, lube the key part of the switch, cycle it back and forth 20-30 times with the key, and see if that clears the code permanently. That is a piece that just sits and collects dirt/dust/corrosion from non-use.

Davidkrocks

30th October 2015, 11:58

I plasti-dipped the windshield frame black a while ago. I am quite happy with the result. I think the car looks a few years younger like this.

Today, I washed, cleaned and put her to sleep for the winter.

See you in Spring.

I like the look of your head unit what is it called?!

Davidkrocks

30th October 2015, 12:00

Today I finished up my vents in the hood, I think it looks pretty clean. [emoji5]️229688229689
Don't look at the dirty car or headlights, I need to clean her up

Did you source the parts yourself? It's the best hood vent I've seen

arturo7

30th October 2015, 15:52

Found out I need a new RR wheel bearing.

bmgreenberg88

30th October 2015, 19:31

The two piller drain tubes should be checked regularly as they can easily get clogged up. If the water is on the gas door side, check to be sure the gas lid cubbly drain isn't clogged as well.

Thanks for the info! I was actually hoping to toss it all and start over, I was just trying to figure out if this was some horrible stock solution or something a PO did. I will be tossing this stuff for now, and chasing down this leak before I think about stashing something else in there. One of the PO's put this awful fake dynamat stuff in and after a couple leaks in the trunk it's disintegrating and holding mold so I have pulled all the wet stuff, but my trunk is done for. I would have to grind everything down to bare metal, and repaint if I wanted it it clean again.

Also, I have been keeping all drains clean and open, I think I have a leak in my rain rail and need to replace it. It's about time for the top as well so I'm hoping to do both this winter.

doane2u

30th October 2015, 21:00

Also, I have been keeping all drains clean and open, I think I have a leak in my rain rail and need to replace it. It's about time for the top as well so I'm hoping to do both this winter.

Good point, I should have also mentioned the rain rail, a real possibility. Hope you get it all fixed and dry in there before it starts causing other rust problems, not to mention ruining any traveling items you might take with you! ;)

drdellorama

30th October 2015, 22:02

im gonna attempt to change my tranny and rear diff fluid tomorrow, wish me luck!

B00LS

31st October 2015, 00:48

Got around to polishing my headlights. They look clear again :)

Unusualdesigner

31st October 2015, 01:04

im gonna attempt to change my tranny and rear diff fluid tomorrow, wish me luck!

Make sure to remove the FILL plugs BEFORE removing the drains. More than one person has drained their fluid only to find the fill plugs so tight that they could not be budged.

Warhammer

31st October 2015, 11:38

Make sure to remove the FILL plugs BEFORE removing the drains. More than one person has drained their fluid only to find the fill plugs so tight that they could not be budged.

That's some darn good advice! :thumbs:

attlid

31st October 2015, 11:52

I like the look of your head unit what is it called?!

It is an Alpine CDE-W235BT

http://www.alpine-europe.com/p/Products/cd-head-units19/cde-w235bt

I think it matches the NBFL interior very well. Most head units these days are way to flashy, but this one is pretty clean. Sound is good too.

konakona

31st October 2015, 14:55

konakona, RE: airbag switch:

sounds like a plan, except I never received the key from the PO (bet she never knew what that keyhole was there for :D) if anything, it's been a full day without it coming back. surely it is a liability if I am planning on giving someone a ride, which I started doing recently. gotta clean the connectors at least!

on an unrelated note, I finally cleaned evap coils with a can of 3M product (PN3743). the instructions called for drilling a hole on the evap housing to inject the stuff in, I opted to take out the blower motor and snake the hose through that opening. let it sit to soak in for an hour or so, sprayed a generous amount of water mist, cycled between coldest AC and hottest heater - 30 min+ each, both full blast and outside air. Still smells kinda odd, but it's not the same musty smell originally there before the job. Could be the cleaning agent, or combination of that and the mildew remaining (if any) in the evan coils or somewhere in the HVAC duct. been driving all day, again switching back and forth between prolonged AC and heater to wash the stuff away and dry the coils. Still got some residual smell, not sure if it is getting any better :dunno:

Warhammer

31st October 2015, 15:12

sounds like a plan, except I never received the key from the PO (bet she never knew what that keyhole was there for :D) if anything, it's been a full day without it coming back ...

The airbag switch just uses the ignition key.

Seashed

31st October 2015, 15:22

^^OK, "Speedy Fingers"! Beat me to it! Hope you are having a great weekend BTW.
Been hankering for a Hopdoddy burger lately, go have one and think of me!

Warhammer

31st October 2015, 16:06

^^OK, "Speedy Fingers"! Beat me to it! Hope you are having a great weekend BTW.
Been hankering for a Hopdoddy burger lately, go have one and think of me!

Lol! I might just have to go there for lunch tomorrow! Hope you're doing great!

Seashed

31st October 2015, 16:19

^^THX! Life is working out very well, just as I want it at this point.
Again, thanks for your kindness and courtesy when I came through Austin.
That was one of the highlights of my trip! You're a real nice guy, but that
darn burger was INCREDIBLE!

JonK67

31st October 2015, 16:33

on an unrelated note, I finally cleaned evap coils with a can of 3M product.... let it sit to soak in for an hour or so, sprayed a generous amount of water mist, cycled between coldest AC and hottest heater - 30 min+ each, both full blast and outside air. Still smells kinda odd, but it's not the same musty smell originally there before the job. Could be the cleaning agent, or combination of that and the mildew remaining (if any) in the evan coils

Are you sure the drain hose on the console side of the evap coils is draining? I pulled the hose and let the spigot drain into a bucket on the floorboard so I could see how much trash came out when I sprayed mine. I also used the coil cleaner and lots of sprayed water as well as a shop vac.

Seashed

31st October 2015, 16:40

^^Agree! I pulled mine of, "just because", and it had a bunch of old crud in it.
I ran a wire through it, then some water under pressure, and put it back in place knowing that it wouldn't give me any trouble down the road.

jsinnard

31st October 2015, 16:53

Noticed a couple of oil drips under the car while flushing the coolant. Oil filter adapter plate on my Thompson filter relocation kit had slowly worked loose so I tightened that. No more leaks but I'm going to start checking it more frequently with each oil change now. 2nd time it's loosened in 10 years.

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